What is the Bishop Method? 1. Sewing is based on grain line of fabric 2. Uses precision cutting, stitching, and pressing 3. Uses minimum amount of pinning and basting 4. Goal eliminate the 'homemade' look
Where your measurements are found on the machine - Throat Plate
The part of the machine where you reload thread - Bobbin winder
The part that surrounds the needle - Presser foot
Teeth that pulls the fabric - Feed dog
The plastic piece that covers the bobbin - Bobbin cover
The part that moves up and down with the thread - Thread take up lever
The button that allows you to sew in the opposite direction - Backstitch lever
Top knob - Stitch selector
Bottom knob - Stitch length
The thing that lifts the presser foot - Presser foot lifter
Pressing ham - Used to press darts
Interfacing - Support shape in areas, edges, and details of garment
Sew on interfacing - Interfacing that is sewed on the machine
Fusible interfacing - Fusible only on one side - iron the dot side to the fabric
How to measure full bust? - Place tape measure across the widest part of the back - under arms and across full bustline
How to measure waist? - Place tape measure horizontal and flat - Close to hips
How to measure hips? - Place tape measure horizontally and flat across fullest part of hips - Around butt
How to measure back waist length? - Measure from most prominent bone at base of neck - Along middle of back to lower edge of tape measure at waistline
How to measure back crotch depth? - Measure from lower edge of fixed waistline in sitting position - Measure to seat level
How to measure side length? - Measure along side seam from lower edge of waistline tape to floor - Normal pant leg is about 3 in shorter than measurement
Pattern Markings - Within pattern piece - Markings such as darts, pleats or facing - Need to be transferred onto fabric after cutting out
Pattern Markings: Grain of Fabric - Pattern shows how the pattern should be placed on fabric grain
Pattern Markings: Notches - Single, double or triple notches used to match seams correctly
Cutting Guide: Tissue Pattern - Identified by name and number
Cutting Guide: Layout - Guide to pattern pieces needed for each view, cutting, and sewing - Pattern piece diagram identifying pieces required for each view - Cutting guides (shows where to place pieces) arranged by view, size, width of fabric - Step-by-step sewing instructions
Cutting Guide: Guide Sheet (Road Map) - Used to figure out where to lay what pieces where
Why do you wash fabric? - Wash fabric finishings - Wash away color bleeding and dyes - Preshrunk
Basic Cutting - For accurate results keep fabric on flat cutting surface
Grainline Arrow is parallel to selvage
Tracing/Marking - Colored Pencil - Soap - Chalk - Tailor's tacks
Tracing Wheel Tool used to mark lines on fabric
Tracing Paper Colored Paper used to mark lines on fabric
How do you thread a needle? - Thread needle with thread from spool cutting at angle
What are notions? - Buttons - Zippers - Lace
Slipstitch - Almost invisible and formed by slipping thread under fold of fabric - Used if there is a hole in seam - Good for closing up hole
Flat Catchstitch - Strong hemming stitch well suited to stitched-and-pinked hem edge - stitches are worked from left to right with needle pointing left - Stitches are visible
Blind Hem Stitch - Stitches are taken inside between hem and garment - Quick and easy stitch that can be used on any blind hem - Working from right to left with needle pointing left - Made for delicate fabrics - Won't wear on underneath layers
Machine Hem - Stronger hem that doesn't come out - Use on jacket, work clothes, children's wear - Sturdier than hand stitch - Not good on long fabrics b/c shoes can get caught
Blind Catchstitch - Same stitch as catchstitch - Used for flat hemming except is done between hem and garment - More stable and secure blind hemming stitch - Good for heavy fabrics
Staystitching - Row of directional stitching placed just inside seamlines to prevent stretching - 4/8 inch or 1/2 inch
Grain - Lengthwise and Crosswise grains
Lengthwise grain - Strongest thread - Always runs parallel to selvage edge - Want this to run down body vertically
Crosswise Grain - Runs horizontal across lengthwise grain - Not as strong as lengthwise grain
Straight Corner - Sew at 5/8 inch s.a. - Once at edge, lift presser foot, and pivot - Sew 5/8 inch s.a. down other side
Blunt Corner - Sew 5/8 inch s.a. - Once at corner, reduce stitch length, pivot diagonally, and sew 2-3 stitches at 6/8 inch - Set stitch length normal and sew 5/8 inch s.a. down other side
Mitered Corner - Diagonal joining of 2 edges at a corner - Used for table cloth or runner, placemat, book cover - Very neat and tailored look
Clipping and Notching - Used on curved seams allowing them to lie smooth - Clips are cuts made into s.a. - Notches are wedges cut from s.a.
Understitching - Keeps facing and seamline from rolling to garment right side - stitching close to seamline
Turned and Stitched - Stitch normal 5/8 inch s.a. - Turn under edge of s.a. 1/8 inch; press - Stitch along edge of fold
Pinked and Stitched - Sew regular 5/8 inch s.a. - Press open and sew 1/4 inch width seam (presser foot) on one side of s.a. - cut side you just stitched with pinking shears
Zig Zag Seam - Set your machine to zig zag stitch setting and sew
Flat-felled seam - Seam where all raw edges are encased by fabric and sewn flat - used on jeans and children's wear and located on the outside
French Seam - Sew wrong sides together at 3/8 inch - Backstitch, trim seam back to 1/8 inch - Mainly found in evening wear, lingerie, fabrics that fray, silky fabric - Good for light material
Cleanfinishing - Sew 1/4 s.a. - Fold s.a. on stitch and sew close - technique about finishing raw edge of fabric
Topstitching - Sew 5/8 inch s.a. - decorative and gives more tailored look, used to strengthen
Princess Seams - Shaped seams designed to fit the body's contours - Beginning at shoulder or arm hold, front or back, and running lengthwise, they may go just to waistline seam or extend to hem of jacket or dress - starting with seam over bust all way down to hem
Darts - horizontal or vertical - start wide space to pointed narrow section - if horizontal press down - vertical press center
Plain Dart - In pj top coming out from side seam - Found in bust, waistline, back of pants going around butt
Contour Dart - Middle of garment begins and ends - pressed on pressing ham
Plain tucks - fold of fabric stitched down on grain line
Released tucks - fans out compared to plain tuck - can take place of dart
Rolled collar - first stands up from neck edge then falls down to rest on garment - line at which the collar begins to fall is called roll line
Fold down casing - formed by turning an extension in place - casing is ideal for pull-on pants and skirts
Button hole (machine) - Attach special tool - Set stitch selector to button
Lapped Zipper - hides zipper - done on wrong side of fabric - done from bottom to top
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